The north coast is perhaps
the most varied region of Devon. It stretches all the way from Hartland
Quay with its tremendous cliffs and multi-coloured rocks, via car-free
Clovelly village tumbling to the sea, past the estuaries of the
River Torridge (where Tarka lived) and River Taw, through
Braunton's wilderness of sand dunes (all good for birdwatching),
to the best sandy surfing beaches in Devon at Saunton (as well
as the West Country's best golf course), Croyde and Woolacombe,
all the way up to Exmoor.
The main town, Barnstaple is busy and
thriving, but not too big. The Tarka Trail cycleway (bikes for
hire) attractively follows the River Torridge from deep inland
to the sea and on past Instow's good beach and lovely cricket
ground to Barnstaple. From Hartland Point's lighthouse
there are great views to Lundy Island. This can be reached for
a day trip on a ship from Ilfracombe. In Appledore unusual
ships are built and its heart is very pretty. Elizabethan
merchantmen sailed from Bideford.Inland,
woods and fields roll, sometimes steeply, with streams, rivers and farms,
almost totally unspoilt - as is most of the coast.
The north-west of Devon, stretching
from Hatherleigh to Hartland, is the least changed, least visited, least
inhabited part. It is a country of gently undulating fields and forests,
with long, long views beneath big skies where old men in their vegetable
gardens look up as a car passes. The main (very small) town is Holsworthy,
with its square and market. The
River Tamar rises in the Tamar Lakes (water sports, fishing). The
roads are straighter and less high-hedged than most in Devon - and emptier.
